2015: Exploring the Nordic and Baltic States: BP (Before Putin): 8 July: Tallinn, Estonia (12 miles; 555)

Our Aland log cabin host permitted us to check out, store luggage at the main building, and then hang about until 10 pm. One of the guests caught his first fish, brought it in to show, clean, and freeze to take home.

Our ferry check-in time was 12:30 am, boarding 12:55 am, and departure at 1:05 am. That seemed odd, caused Stuart much anxiety, so we went to the terminal to check. All was correct.

Proud Fisherman. (Pike?)

Granny Plays Accordion. Mother of one of the men playing keyboards, accordion, and vocalist. Having to leave our accommodation, we stumbled upon a live band and oldies crowd. I said, These people are old. Stuart replied, So are we.

To maintain the ability to sell merchandise tax-free on the ferries, they must dock for a minimum of 15 minutes in the Aland Islands. The measure was granted as an economic stimulus, no doubt with much ferry operator support. Our ferry arrived, and loaded three bike tourists, three bikes, and one motorcyclist. The ferry port employee said that traffic picks up in the summer, but during winter months, they often don’t bother to lower the doors. When I asked about the 10-minute port time, he said, We cheat a little.

We reserved a sleeping cabin. It featured two bunk beds and en suite bath. Well worth the cost, about $60 each. While similar to our Stockholm hostel, it was both smaller and better. Another suite down the corridor was packed with 8-10 Swedish students who had been partying since Stockholm—cheap ferry beer and streamers of empty beer cans strung between the bunks. Fortunately, they either passed out or left before we tried to sleep. While smaller than our Stockholm to Mariehamn ferry, this one still had 9 decks, multiple lounges, and the vital duty free shop.

Ferry Cabin. Smaller than our Stockholm hostel, but better equipped.

We arrived in Tallinn on time at 10 am, July 8. I called Kai, a new Shipley Nordic employee in the Baltics, who promptly met us on his bicycle and escorted us to our hotel providing an incredibly detailed and informative monologue along the way. Our lodging was a spacious, two-bedroom apartment, full kitchen, lounge, and bath within the walls of the old city.

Kai’s background made him the perfect host: Born in a bilingual Danish-Finish family, he has an Estonian wife and two children, speaks 6 or 7 languages fluently, and can cope in 6 more. Kai is a history and geology buff, with a detailed recall of events, dates, and consequences. Estonians have no love for their German occupiers, but even greater venom reserved for the Soviets, who occupied their country repeatedly and imposed their utopian Soviet system. Much of Tallinn is intact, although the Soviets did bomb the city. Seems that they had been bombing Helsinki, the Germans were retreating, so they decided to redirect the Helsinki-bound wave to Tallinn to avoid wasting good bombs. The clever Finns, knowing they would be bombed, prepared bon fires in a marshy area near Helsinki. After the first wave, they lit the bon fires. The Soviet pilots on ensuing waves targeted the diversion.

Kia took us on a bike tour of the areas around Tallinn, including the prison, then we walked the core of the old town after dinner when the mist/rain had stopped. We dined at Grandma’s House, a restaurant where Hillary Clinton had dined. Whatever your politics, outstanding food at a restaurant no one would find without a local contact. The entry was via a nondescript passage, then a short descent to a sub-basement.

Kai, John, our waitress, Stuart

Tallinn Fortifications

Tallinn Street. Note the sign for the hair cutter or barber. Tallinn has a sign tradition showing symbols rather than just words. Likely some potential customers could not read or could not read in the same language.

Pharmacy Sign on Wall

Hanging Pharmacy Sign

Dog of the Day. Not really, but 1246 is impressive.

Perhaps they serve beer?

Tavern. Explained as a play on words. The hell is the wolf and is hunting for love.

Facade

Swedish Embassy

Facade #2

Orthodox Icon

Tallinn Fortress Walls

Fat Margaret Tallinn Roundhouse. One of two built at each end of the city walls.

Hostel Opposite the Fat Margaret Roundhouse

1910-1920 Era Wood Frame Construction. Units like this typically contained 8 apartments, now often merged into 4 units.

Estonian Barracks Converted into a Prison by the Soviets.

The Cafe Is Open. Kai showed us the best places, not your typical guide.

Prison Guard Tower

Cell Blocks with Soviet Numbering

Typical Tallinn Street

Inner Fortress Tower

Fortress Wall Corner Tower

Bird of the Day. Why have poles (bollard in the UK) to block auto traffic? Why not use a stone bird? Except it probably does not retract for emergency vehicle access.